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Yazidi

(Yazidi architecture)
I am not going to pretend to be an expert on ancient religions. In the northwestern region of Iraq is a sect of peoples called Yazidi. I made it to their temple in a mountain village called Lalish. It is about 30 miles or so north of Mosul. It is another 50 miles east of Dohuk. Of course, there are no maps.

My driver slipped me a bit of Third-World optimism. He assured me he could find the way. First for 100 Dollars, then he cut it to 75. You get what you pay for. His car looked like one of those cars you see in the movies. You know where civilization has suddenly died off earth and we take a peek a couple years later. After five wrong turns we were - - lost in Iraq. He said it was because there is a Lalish city proper just down the road from the mountain temple which confused him - he after all, had not been there in two years. I thought, "Dude, I have not been in Baraboo, Wisconsin for two years but I still know the way." The point being that the getting-there is always a big part of any site here. A police officer next to a beer shop in Lalish proper finally got us on the right road toward the mountains. Beer - a good sign. People that drink beer surely would not do me and my driver in.

I had read other writers' mention of how cold the floor is in the temple. You must remove your shoes. It is true enough. To my surprise, what other writers did not seem to mention is there is more than a temple. It is actually a small village planted among and below the rocks of the mountains. There were children, families, people walking about. The holy men greeted my driver and I at the entrance to the temple and we graciously accepted the offer of tea.

I met a fellow who was visiting the temple that had lived in Germany for 12 years. He, like so many other Yazidi and Kurds fled the region in bad times. I could not help seeing the irony of speaking German to communicate in a Yazidi village, in Kurdistan, in the north of Iraq.

Of course I should take pictures, everyone insisted. I did not feel the anxiety I usually feel taking pictures in other parts of Iraq. Here it was expected. The pollution today was a fright. It reminds me of parts of the Great Lakes area in the 1960s - you can cut it with a knife. The mountain village Lalish however was protected. The sky was clear above its mountain enclave.

Yazidi architecture boasts conical roofs. They are as distinct as anything I have ever seen. My understanding is that the Yazidi culture goes back at least 1000 years. I get the impression there is a longer time-line. To my understanding they are neither Christian, Muslim, Jewish, Buddhist, or Hindu. They are Kurds, but religiously they are their own group. Historians, as always, you are welcome to tighten up my humble knowledge.

Bob Keith
Lalish, Iraq

View more pictures from Bob's travels.